Yerevan
Pink tuff, Republic Square fountains, and a dinner hour that starts at nine.
The Caucasus
Old stone, young city, long table
Armenia is small enough that almost everything worth seeing is a day trip, and old enough that the day trips are to buildings that were already ancient when the rest of the region was being founded. Geghard is carved into the rock. Tatev hangs over a canyon you reach by the longest cable car in the world. Neither takes more than a morning from Yerevan.
The capital is the counterweight. Yerevan is pink tuff, wide boulevards and a dinner hour that starts when most cities are closing, and the honest shape of this trip is to base yourself there for most of it rather than change hotel every night for the sake of the map.
Where you will go
The places this country is actually about, and what each one is for.
Pink tuff, Republic Square fountains, and a dinner hour that starts at nine.
A Hellenistic temple and a monastery cut into the cliff, forty minutes apart. One morning, both.
A mountain sea at nineteen hundred metres. Warm enough to swim in August, and empty by September.
Forest, timber balconies and two monasteries in the trees. The one place here worth an overnight.
The long way south, and a cable car over the Vorotan gorge that is the trip in itself.
Journeys
Three nights in Armenia
Yerevan, Sevan, Dilijan, Khor Virap and Etchmiadzin
Eleven nights across the three Caucasus capitals
Four nights in Georgia, three in Armenia
From the Georgian coast to the Armenian highlands
Mtskheta and Kazbegi, then Etchmiadzin, Khor Virap and Sevan
Yerevan
Uncover the mystical Armenia